It's warmer in here and nice and quiet since I am the only one here.
Friday, May 31, 2013
Coffman Cove Library
I found some connectivity at the local library but it is closed except 14:00 to 15:00 on Fridays but I can get a good signal from outside so I am sitting on the porch sending email and downloading a file for Bob and the latest New Yorker for me. It just started raining really hard but a kind fellow came along and let me in. The library is really nice with a video phone and a good collection of books. The Internet is provided by OWL (Online With Library's) a fund sponsored by the Gates Foundation.
Here is a view from the porch of the library
Coffman Cove
Coffman Cove, AK
May 31, 2013
Latitude: N56.01117°
Longitude: W132.83250°
We left Meyers Chuck and headed over to Thorne Bay. It's a cute town that used to be the site of the biggest logging camp in the US. We are on Prince of Wales Island which is one of the largest islands in SE Alaska. It has also been extensively logged.
The weather was nice and I took a little hike along the shore and Bob went shopping at the local store. When the supplies were loaded we took off for Coffman Cove.
Coffman Cove is on the northerly end of Prince of Wales and Bob has several friends there that he was looking forward to visiting. The run up the shore was easy going and the seas calm.
We arrived around 11:00 and took a walk to see if we could find Bob's friend Ethel. We found her out clipping bushes in her front yard and got a tour of her house. Ethel collects things. Things from the beach like shrimp pot floats. And rocks. She has an impressive collection of Indian rocks, rocks that were used as hammers or grinders or spear points or cooking rocks. She has piles of them. She has photos and newspaper clippings and art and things, all piled high. But she seems to know where everything is and can find things fairly quickly when she wants to. Ethel walked back to the boat with us to have a bit of lunch and while we were on the dock another of Bob's friends, Liz, showed up.
Liz and her husband live here and up around Fairbanks and sometimes in New Port Richey, FL. They moved here from Upstate NY and homesteaded here in Coffman Cove. She went to school and started out as a medical lab technician but she has several advanced degrees in biology and ecology. She has been a school teacher, worked for Exxon on the oil clean up, worked on a Salmon trawler that she and here husband owned. Right now her husband is working as a paving contractor near Fairbanks and she will join him in a month or so.
They started out homesteading the land by living in a school bus they bought in NY and then drove up here They built the house they have in Coffman Cove by themselves, with wood harvested from their land. They have a big shop and a sawmill. They raise chickens and have several vegetable gardens. We went to Liz's house for dinner and most of what we ate she had produced herself. We had salad with eggs from her chickens, bread she baked, salmon that she had caught and smoked, roast chicken that had been a mean spirited rooster she decided to get even with, the wine we drank was a raspberry wine she made. Very impressive. She said that she seldom goes to the store and can fill the meat locker from the venison she hunts in the fall. She told a story of a moose that kept getting into her garden so she figured she had fed the moose long enough now it was time for the moose to feed her.
Around here wood is abundant and many residents have sawmills. Residents are permitted to harvest up to 10,000 board feet of timber from the Tongas Forest free of charge. You can still homestead up here if you reside here for 36 months and build a home. Many of the residents have the same take on living here. You provide your own food either from fishing or hunting or both. You build your own place, grow all that you can and are as self sufficient as possible. I think you would have to live this way because there is no store close by and no Costco or Walmart. The closest Safeway is in Ketchikan, 60 miles away by boat.
This morning we woke up to rain and a patchy fog, just like AK is supposed to be. We will hang out here today and then go on tomorrow. Bob is doing some work on the electrical system today and we will go for a hike.
There is no cell service here so I don't know when this will post....
Thursday, May 30, 2013
A few more photos
Olivia's at for Bob
Dan and Carol's house
The feast
What happens in the Back Chuck stays in the Back Chuck.
Alaska cabin
Meyers Chuck
Meyers Chuck, AK
May 28, 2013
Latitude: N55.74305°
Longitude: W132.26163°
Yesterday while the boat was stuck in the grid we spent some time going to the Laundromat doing was and the had lunch. We moved over to Bar Harbor marina after we were afloat from the grid and thought we might have some quiet but between washing the boat and taking a shower it was dinner time. We ate dinner down the road the the Best Western by the airport. The food there was surprisingly good. After dinner we walked back to the boat and were treated to a lightning storm. The word is that electrical storms are rare in SE AK. This was quite a show. But I was tired and went to bed early since I had been up since 03:30.
This morning we slept in until 06:00 then had a leisurely breakfast of oatmeal with banana. About that time, Dan came by to say hello and goodby and to deliver Olivia's latest picture. I am told she draws one for Bob each year but there are only two presently displayed on Fremont.
When things were cleaned up we went shopping at the Safeway by the docks and after loading up we set off for Meyers Chuck. This one of the places Bob really likes and he has several good friends that have homes or spend time there. It is a very cute but basic place with a Post Office that gets weekly service a small gallery with local art, including quilts and a small boat repair business.
Once we passed Caameno Point and entered Clarence Strait we passed the furthest place I have been in this part of SE Alaska. Even though this is my 3rd trip up the coast I have always headed home from Ketchikan but this trip I wanted to stay on longer to see more of the coast and now I am in new territory.
Bob's friends, Dan and Carol Higgins, have a house here that used to be a school but when there weren't any more kids living here it closed. They bought it and converted it to their home. We went up there for dinner. It is a beautiful home and Dan has done all the work to fix it up. He is a skilled woodworker as well as a fisherman. The house is big and airy but the spaces are simple and it is very comfortable with a big fireplace right in front where you look out to the Chuck. We had shrimp and crab that Dan had harvested from his pots and salad that Bob and I brought. Carol said that there was not much in the house and this was a simple dinner....I don't know what an extravagant feast would look like but it would have to be very impressive to better this one.
May 29,2013
Meyers Chuck, AK
17:00
Today was a hang out day at Meyers Chuck. We slept in a bit, made coffee and had our oatmeal. Then we hiked out to the point to see if we could find some useable cell service. It is modestly better out on the end of the point and the hike was nice. When I got back to the boat I took a shower and read for a time. We needed to run the generator for a while first to get hot water but that didn't take too long.
After a light lunch we launched the big kayak and went paddling around to the "Inner Chuck" and visited a friend over there. The water was smooth and the paddling enjoyable. Greg Rice, Bob's friend on the Inner Chuck is a year round resident here who makes his living as a gill netter and a diver. He has a sawmill next to his house and he harvested all the wood to build his house. He also makes beautiful wooden bowls and furniture from the local wood and drift wood. The winters he spends at a Buddhist Center in Santa Fe. When we visited he was readying his boat for the upcoming fishing season but he let us look around the property.
When we returned to the boat I had some trouble getting out of the kayak (I am old and stiff) and I came close to upsetting and sending us both into the drink. Eventually I untangled my self and exited but it wasn't very graceful. Bob commented, "That was close." It was not my best effort.
Tonight Craig, Dan and Carol are coming over to the boat for appetizers and cocktails. Tomorrow we will set out early to allow some exploring and then go to Coffman Cove which is further up the Clarence Strait.
Monday, May 27, 2013
Ketchikan
Ketchikan, AK
07:30 ADT
Two days ago, going into Foggy Bay, we hit a rock. All systems seemed ok (rudder worked, prop seemed ok, no apparent leaks...) so we went on to Ketchikan. But Bob wanted to check the bottom to asses the damage. The haul out places were all closed yesterday and today because of the holiday weekend. So, we decided to go on the Grid. That is not the same thing as it would mean back home. In AK it means a series of beams set on the sea bed. You put your boat over it and wait for the tide to go out leaving the boat high and dry.
We left our slip at 04:00 to catch the higher tide. We put the Fremont in the grid and waited until the tide lowered. By about 06:30 we could walk around the bottom and see the damage. We were lucky. The only thing wrong was Some chips out of the gel coat on the keel.
So we let the Fremont sit and went in search of Cappuccino. The tide will be high enough to float the boat around 14:00 when we will go get fuel and move over to Bar Harbor basin.
A new set of cruise ships today.
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Ketchikan
Ketchikan, AK
May 26, 2013
Latitude: N55.33951°
Longitude: W131.64163°
Well here we are in Ketchikan. We are docked at Thomas Basin which is right in the heart of the tourist part of the city and next to the cruise ships. It is kind of weird to be parked next to a ship with 2500 people on it.
It was a smooth trip from Foggy Bay with calm seas and little wind. Last year when we came through is was rough...this evened thing out. We called customs and they came down to the dock to clear us through..
Foggy Bay, AK
Foggy Bay, AK
May 25, 2013
Latitude: N54.95156°
Longitude: W130.94098°
We left Hartley Bay at 05:30 and headed around the west side of Promise Island and then up the Grenville Channel. There were a few shrimp boats anchored in the Cohegian Anchorage as we went by but we were the only ones out on the water for a long time. The current was against us for a while but it was not that strong and it was good to get an early start.
We were going to make a lunch stop at Lowe Inlet but we were early and it didn't seem worth it this trip. Lowe Inlet is a good anchorage with a gushing waterfall at the head.
All the way up Greville Channel the going was smooth and the wind was light so we decided to cut across the sound rather than going into Prince Rupert. Our plan was to go to Dundas Island but when we got there at 17:30 we decided to push on to Foggy Bay since we had the luxury of having calm conditions.
All across Dixon Entrance we saw Dall's porpoise. Dall's make a splash when they come to the surface and the blast around at high speed so they are fun to watch. Sometimes they come alongside and swim next to the boat.
Right as we were passing Foggy Point We saw a couple of Humpback Whales.
We arrived there right on schedule but with a 1 hr time change the clocks looked earlier.
Tomorrow we should be in Ketchikan.
Friday, May 24, 2013
Hartley Bay
Hartley Bay
May 24, 2013
Latitude: N53.42363°
Longitude: W129.25179°
The route took us up Reid Passage and then over to Jackson Narrows. Jackson Narrows is just like its name suggests, narrow but deep enough. I like going through because the scenery is great.
It was cloudy all day but the winds were light and the going smooth. We went by Klemtu and Butedale. Butedale is and "ghost" town that used to house a cannery and logging operation but by 1973 it was all but abandoned. There is a big lake above it and a massive waterfall that was used to power the machinery.
All along this section of the coast we are in steep sided fiords with snow capped mountains on both sides. Every few miles there is a cascade of water pouring off the slopes. With not much soil and lots of hard rock the creeks are white water all the way to the sea.
We pushed on to Hartley Bay. Bob cooked dinner on the way and we arrived in port around 20:00 a run of over 12 hrs. The BC ferry passed us going into Price Rupert and then the run going back south to Port Hardy. It's a fine looking ship and I think that would be good ride to take.
Hartley Bay Is a small Indian community with a nice harbor and good docks. The streets are boardwalks and the locals use 4 wheelers to get around. Even the fire truck, the police vehicle and the ambulance are built on small golf cart like chassis.
We walked around some and I like the feel of the place but the flies were fierce on the land. They didn't bite but they swarmed around like crazy. The locals didn't seem to mind them but we retreated to the boat.
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Shearwater
Shearwater, BC
Latitude: N52.14782°
Longitude: W128.08922°
May, 23, 2013
When we departed Fury Cove at 09:00 the wind was calm and there was a bit of fog around. The route takes us a long way up the Fitz Hugh Sound. This morning the wind began picking up from the South and after awhile we had a fairly big following sea. The wind eventually strengthened to 20 kn or so. We were glad that it was behind us and helping rather than on our bow.
Once we made the turn into Lama Passage at the top of Hunter Island things smoothed out and we had an easy trip passed Bella Bella and into Shearwater. Shearwater is a good stop because they have showers and a laundromat right by the docks (I used both.) They also have store and a pub. Many big boats stop here on the way North and today is no exception.. We are docked next to 100+ foot yacht and across from some 50 ft ones. The boaters like the looks of Fremont though and they come by to visit with Bob and find out about fishing and the trip to Alaska. One couple in a Tolly Craft across the dock was at the same harbor as Wendy, Keith and I a few years ago when we were in Telegraph Harbor on Thetis Island in the Gulf Islands.
One of the big problems with Shearwater, unfortunately, Is the water. It is brownish and tannic from the soil around here and it tastes badly as well. One trip we filled our tank here and we had to do a big clean out when we got to Price Rupert because we couldn't stand the taste.
The word is that it is safe, but its not worth the trouble so we will go over to Bella Bella, just across the channel, in the morning and take on water there.
Then we will be on our way north with a stop in Klemtu. The native residents of Klemtu are Kitasoo (Heiltsuk) and Xaixau (Tsimshian) and the village has one of the finest Big Houses on the coast with large poles and cross beams. It has a nice store and some facilities as well.
More to come when we get back to Internet world.
Fury Cove
May 22, 2013
Fury Cove, BC
Latitude: N51.48737°
Longitude: W127.75806°
We left Port Nevis at 07:00. The wind was by the stern and the current was with us for the better part of 3 hrs and the sun was out...all good. We followed a tug and tow for almost 7 hours... It made me think of the saying, "When you are not the lead dog the view never changes." It was one of the nicest trips up the Queen Charlotte Sound you could imagine. Around 03:00 we thought about stopping at Miles Inlet but the weather was good and we decided to push on to Fury Cove which is on the North side of Cape Caution... The trip around Cape Caution is one of the places where you are exposed to the open Pacific Ocean and it can be rough. As we got further out in the sound we picked up bigger swells from the West. They were 10-15 meters high but the surface was smooth. Not bad going.
As the afternoon progressed the wind picked up so as we made the turn North it was rough going and just as we were getting closer to the shelter of the shore the wind backed to Northerly and beat on us all the way into the bay. Bob's dog, Inga the German Shepard, did not like it. When it gets rough she likes to wedge her self in at the base of the helm but even that was not working for her this afternoon.
We got to the anchorage and Inga got a kayak trip to shore to finally get to do her "dog duty". After 12 hrs under way I am sure she felt "relieved." There's no connectivity here so this will post when there is a connection.
Next stop, Shearwater and Bella Bella.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
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